PDF Printing Guide

Daughter Judy offers all of it’s patterns in instant download right to your computer for either at home, copy shop or projector printing. Each pattern comes with 8 files and includes both size ranges; Instruction manual, home format pattern (US letter and A4 compatible), copy shop pattern (36” and A0 compatible), projector format pattern and envelope file.


We recommend a PDF software such as Adobe Acrobat or Reader for best printing using the “actual size” setting. Mac users are able to print directly from Preview at 100% scaling. All of our patterns are layered so you can select only the size or sizes you wish to work with, however this function is only available using Adobe Acrobat. The first page of our print layout has a scaling box which we recommend you print first to check your settings are correct.


Following the numbered guide (layout included in the instruction manual) use an exacto knife cut off the right and bottom edges of all pieces and overlap securing with tape or glue. 

Tip : To prevent reassemblage we recommend tracing always which also helps you keep the original intact to refer back to if you make pattern adjustments. 


The A0 / 36" copy shop files are larger files that can be printed through a local shop that prepares prints for architects/designers or through different websites depending on where you live. The advantage to this is the pattern is printed on larger sheets so there is less cutting and pasting. For copy shop printing they must be printed through Adobe Acrobat/Reader or Mac Preview with “no scaling” or “actual size”.


The projector file has been adjusted to have bolder line weights, larger fonts and all pieces in the same direction so there is no need to turn fabric as you go. You will also find a grid layer in the file to help calibrate if needed, however this function is only available using Adobe Acrobat.


All styles come with a convenient envelope you can print on tabloid or A3 at a copy shop to store your pattern. We suggest a heavier weight paper. Since home printing and copy paper is heavier than tissue, you can print as many as you need.

If a pattern is ever changed you will receive all updates via email and have access to the patterns.



Pattern Set Up


Select pattern pieces for the view you plan to make from pieces table. Remember to always check your measurements against the finished garment measurements as Daughter Judy patterns are built using relative ease for wearing comfort and style. Make any necessary adjustments before cutting. To Lengthen/Shorten–Find the lengthen/shorten line on pattern as indicated by the key. To lengthen, cut along line and place paper underneath, spread desired amount and tape together. To shorten, crease along line and fold removing desired amount, tape down. In both instances remember to true the new line joining upper and lower.


Prepare fabric by preshrinking if necessary, straightening grain or uneven ends. Choose your layout based on the view you are making, fabric width and size. Occasionally the same piece may be used more than once. For pieces on fold, find fold line on pattern as indicated by the key and align to folded edge of fabric, wrong sides together. For single layer, place fabric right side up unless specifically indicated on layout. Follow shading guide for pieces that may be placed printed side up or down. Before removing pattern from fabric, transfer all construction lines and symbols to fabric with marking tool of your choice.



Follow sewing instruction guide to assemble your garment. Be sure to press as you sew and finish all edges as desired. We recommend finishing all edges before beginning. You can finish seam edges in any way you prefer; overlock, binding, pinking, etc. to prevent fraying.




A series of dense zig zags used to reinforce areas of a garment that may be subject to stress or additional wear.



Longest setting for a stitch length used to temporarily hold work or for ease and gathers.



Double needle effect, ⅛" + ⅜” away from edge of seam (¼" gap)



Standard stitch between 8–12 SPI (stitches per inch) used for external construction as a decorative detail, giving the garment a higher quality look. Usually between 1/16" and 1/8" (2 - 3mm) from edge or seam.



Application of stitches, binding, pinking etc. to an edge to prevent fraying and add to the longevity of a garment.



Standard stitch between 12–14 SPI for internal construction, tighter stitches are stronger but also stretchier so there is less chance of breakage.



Three thread (typically) stitch that loops over the edge of a single or double layer of fabric for cleaner finishing on internal construction.



A zig zagged edge, typically done by scissors, that prevents fraying because fabric is being cut on the bias.



Standard stitch 1/4" (6mm) away from edges of cut pieces to prevent stretching and keep cut measurement while constructing other areas of the garment.



Standard stitch between 8–12 SPI used for external construction as a decorative detail, giving the garment a higher quality look. Usually 1/4" (6mm) or above from edge or seam or a freehand detail. Example: arcuate design on the back pocket of jeans.



Standard stitch between 8 - 12 SPI sewn around 1/16" or 1/8" (2 - 3mm) outside the seam line of two pieces that have been sewn together, typically on the facing side, to prevent that side from rolling.



Variation of a lockstitch between 10–12 SPI in a back and forth pattern used because of its higher stretch ability or a way to finish an internal edge.