Let's Talk About Pants

A more in depth way to choose your correct size when all you're given are circumferences

Let's Talk About Pants
Making your own pants is incredibly rewarding while simultaneously testing every ounce of patience you possess. There are however some things you can do before you start (again…patience) that can better help you choose the right size for your specific shape and hopefully avoid multiple muslins and frustration. From the book Sewing Pants for Women by Else Tyroler, 1963 Something that I noticed while I’ve been working through an array of pant drafting methods (see below) was how some lean more industry and work off a graded table and others lean more made to measure, more home sewing. My Daughter Judy process for sewing pattern creation is more towards the former because I’ve set my base and know my grading so the rest of the sizes fall in line from there, more or less. Since home sewing is more made to measure it occurred to me that there may be a missing link in choosing sizes when all you’re given are circumferences. Outside of the usual, measure your body, measure an existing garment, look at the finished measurements blah blah I think there is a need to emphasize looking at your body in parts and choosing based on projection. What do I mean by projection? This could be one or all of the following; belly, pubis, rear, haunches, thigh. So before we’re able to choose correctly we need to find the hidden horizontal lines from drafting on the pattern itself (fair warning, this can get tricky in drop waist or drop crotch styles). Using the Brier Pant as an example I’m going to start with the crotch line. On a close fitting style like this we can easily assume that line is exactly where the crotch is. The front will be our control since these specifically were created to have a shorter back inseam that...

Hi! This is part of our "Loose Leaf" series

A special insider newsletter for paid subscribers, via Substack.

Already a subscriber? Sign in on Substack here.

Interested in in depth tutorials, sewing tips + tricks, and product recommendations?