Designing for home sewing vs rtw, pant fitting thoughts and flat felling the Genra shirt

an Ask Judy segment

Designing for home sewing vs rtw, pant fitting thoughts and flat felling the Genra shirt
I really appreciate what you've written on pants drafting and fit. I am trying to draft my own blocks and have tried 5-6 different books/methods. While I enjoy the paper drafting process, I keep getting stuck on the fitting step and was wondering if you had any good sources for fitting your blocks. Thank you! - Anna The answer to this is more no than yes. My fitting knowledge comes from my experience and having fit on a variety of different bodies that I now have a tool kit in my head. There’s a plethora of online resources targeting the generic fit adjustments but some square pegs don’t fit in square holes. I’d approach fitting more as a whole, note all the parts that need adjusting and then look at them together so see how they interact with each other. A lot of times doing one thing counteracts the other and it’s only realized after you’ve taken the time to make the next fit sample. However I do have two Palmer/Pletsch books, Fit and Sew Custom Jeans by Helen Bartley and Pants for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, that I think are robust resources. They both work through fitting pants/jeans on a multitude of bodies and how they would correct for that persons specific body shape. I do encourage fabric fitting over tissue because it feels to me like fitting a jacket in cotton lawn…why? There’s also Top Down Center Out (hi Ruth and Stacey) that’s not a “book” but a fantastic method for fitting pants to your body shape. Stacey has a series on YouTube that I highly recommend. How is it different designing for home sewing compared to rtw? Are there things you can do with a design intended for home sewists you wouldn’t do for production? - Lauren This is...

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