Designing for home sewing vs rtw, pant fitting thoughts and flat felling the Genra shirt
an Ask Judy segment

I really appreciate what you've written on pants drafting and fit. I am trying to draft my own blocks and have tried 5-6 different books/methods. While I enjoy the paper drafting process, I keep getting stuck on the fitting step and was wondering if you had any good sources for fitting your blocks. Thank you! - Anna The answer to this is more no than yes. My fitting knowledge comes from my experience and having fit on a variety of different bodies that I now have a tool kit in my head. There’s a plethora of online resources targeting the generic fit adjustments but some square pegs don’t fit in square holes. I’d approach fitting more as a whole, note all the parts that need adjusting and then look at them together so see how they interact with each other. A lot of times doing one thing counteracts the other and it’s only realized after you’ve taken the time to make the next fit sample. However I do have two Palmer/Pletsch books, Fit and Sew Custom Jeans by Helen Bartley and Pants for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, that I think are robust resources. They both work through fitting pants/jeans on a multitude of bodies and how they would correct for that persons specific body shape. I do encourage fabric fitting over tissue because it feels to me like fitting a jacket in cotton lawn…why? There’s also Top Down Center Out (hi Ruth and Stacey) that’s not a “book” but a fantastic method for fitting pants to your body shape. Stacey has a series on YouTube that I highly recommend. How is it different designing for home sewing compared to rtw? Are there things you can do with a design intended for home sewists you wouldn’t do for production? - Lauren This is...
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